Romantic Hotels & Resorts
Romantic St. Barth
St. Barthélémy, Isle de France
Overall Romantic Experience *****
St. Jean Beach
St. Barth is the quintessential romantic Caribbean destination. Beautiful, elegant, small and intimate, it doesn’t get any better than this. Whether you stay in one of the island's many villas or in one of the fantastic hotels, whether you prefer beach or shopping, whether you dine out or dine in, your experience in St. Barth will be unforgettable. Here is what you WON’T get here: high rise hotels, casinos, masses of tourists, unfriendly natives, and crime. This is a low key paradise; nightlife consists of dining at one of the dozens of eclectic, romantic restaurants, then stopping by a waterfront bar to hear a little live music. Days are spent on one of several gorgeous beaches; the rare cloudy day brings everyone into town for shopping.
St. Barth is part of France and the E.U. Most of the 8000 residents are of French origin, with fair skin and brown hair. Ironically not too many locals have a tan! Many of the residents return “home” to Paris or other parts of France during the summer, which is low season here. High season runs from just before Christmas through mid-April. Late spring and early summer, as well as Thanksgiving week, are excellent times to visit if you are looking for a great deal. Hotels and villas are discounted, sometimes as much as 50% off of the winter rates. Christmas and New Years are SUPER HIGH season, with lodging rates soaring off the charts. But the island is never really crowded; you may find a few more cars vying for the best parking spots in town, a few more people on St. Jean Beach, and a little more difficulty getting a dinner reservation, but compared to other resort towns in high season it’s not a big deal.
St. Barth is only 8 square miles, so traveling around the island is easy and relatively quick. The farthest you’ll have to travel to get to the opposite end of the island is about 25 minutes, and that’s only because there are a lot of hills and curves. There are no stoplights, but there is one roundabout that you won’t soon forget. (Hint: the loud noise you hear directly above you is a plane approaching the landing strip.) The choice of where to stay is mainly determined by whether you are a villa person or a hotel person. Both have their advantages… first timers might want to go with a hotel, though, to get oriented to the island with a little assistance from the front desk. Villas are the obvious choice for families or groups, or couples who want just a little more privacy.
ARRIVING
Getting to St. Barth is a roller coaster ride --- literally. Only small planes can land on the short runway, so you fly into St. Martin and then take a 12 minute flight in a puddle jumper. Or you can take a ferry. But most people actually come to enjoy the dramatic landings over the hill and take-offs over the beach. The low altitude flight provides great views of the island. Once you arrive, you pick up your rental car right there at the tiny airport. Whether you have rented a villa or reserved a hotel, there will be someone there to meet you and guide you to your lodging. You might want to tell them to meet you about an hour after your plane lands so that you can pick up your rental car and go to Match supermarket, which is across the street from the airport. There you will find everything you need for your stay, from wine and liquors to fresh produce, cheeses, breads, local specialties, to sun screen, paper towels, and villa provisions. There are a couple of other supermarkets on the island but this is a very convenient spot to get your preliminary shopping out of the way before heading to your villa. (Even if you have a hotel room, most of them feature a small refrigerator to store wine or beer or bottled water.)
LODGING
The hotels of St. Barth tend towards the small and elegant. No high rises here; most hotels have only 20 or 30 rooms. The top properties are Le Toiny, Isle de France (IDF), Eden Rock, Guanahani, Carl Gustav, Le Sereno, Le Christopher (now temporarily closed), and Francois Plantation. These are expensive in high season but can be relative bargains in late spring, summer, and fall. (Be aware that St. Barth’s is in the hurricane belt and plan accordingly.) These hotels have very different personalities and characteristics, so research thoroughly before making your selection. For example, IDF, Eden Rock, Guanahani, and Le Sereno are all on a beach; Carl Gustav is in Gustavia (an easy stroll to restaurants in town for dinner, and there's a beach within easy walking distance); Le Toiny is far above a beach but has individual plunge pools in each room and great views; the Christopher is waterfront but not beachfront; and Francois Plantation is high up on the top of the mountain. There are also several nice mid-priced hotels with similar characteristics; info is available on the websites below. Don’t feel that you can’t come to St. Barth’s because you can’t afford one of the super-deluxe hotels; there are some very cute, clean, and comfortable hotel/suites for around 200 euros per night (try Les Mouettes, Le P'tit Morne, or Saline Gardens). So do your research and choose according to your budget and priorities.
The beach at Isle de France
The same can be said for villas; do your research and you’ll find the perfect place. You can choose to use an agency such as Wimco or St. Barth’s Properties, or you can try to find a rental by owner. We’ve rented through the owner three times and have had excellent experiences. Villas can be as inexpensive as 100 euros per night in low season for a small but charming villa/apartment, to 20,000 euros per week in high season for a magnificent show-stopper with all the bells and whistles. There are plenty to choose from in every price category, so look around and be flexible. Decide in advance if being on the beach is critical to your needs, or if you prefer a hillside view (with the attendant breezes). Do you have to have a pool or will you probably not use one after being on the beach all day? (Some people find this an absolute necessity, and we did too until we realized that in two weeks we only used the pool once.) Do you need a full professional kitchen (believe it or not, many visitors cook their meals some nights --- but not me!) or will a small galley-type kitchen suffice? Do you want to be close to Gustavia (not a bad idea on your first visit, less important on subsequent trips) or would you prefer St. Jean (too noisy in my opinion but if you like action you’ll want to consider this option). Scanning through the various villa websites is a great way to fritter away a few hundred hours of your time, so put some thought into it in advance so that you can narrow your search.
DINING
Okay, so you’ve finally reached your lodging --- Now what? You may want to stay close to home the first night, having dinner at your villa or in your hotel’s restaurant. There aren’t too many roads in St. Barth’s and it’s pretty hard to get lost, but since you’re probably arriving in late afternoon or early evening it might be best to wait until daylight to really explore the island. Before going to your villa you can stop at Maya’s To Go (also across from the airport, a hundred yards or so down from Match on the same side) or Kiki et Mo’s (a bit further down in St. Jean) and pick up a full meal, wine, beer, etc. As the week progresses you will probably eat many dinners in the 90+ restaurants on the island, but it’s nice to have the option to hang out by the pool or on the beach or on your patio, listen to some music, and relax over a low key meal "at home". There is also a service which will deliver food from several restaurants: Allo Delivery, phone is 0590 51 07 77.
‘Where to eat?’ will be your most difficult decision every day (your only other decision is what beach to go to). Many people opt for a picnic-type lunch, getting bread, cheese, and other take-out items from the places mentioned above, or of course one of the supermarkets. Add a bottle of wine and a beach and you’re set. Others opt for a sit-down lunch at one of the many restaurants with a view, such as Nikki Beach Club, The Sand Bar (at the Eden Rock Hotel), or La Plage on St. Jean Beach; Le Sereno, or L’Indigo on Grand Cul de Sac; Wall House, Le Repaire, or one of the many other restos around the harbor in Gustavia; Do Brasil on Shell Beach near town; or my personal favorite, Le Case de L’Isle at the Isle de France (IDF) hotel on Flamands Beach. At the IDF your luncheon reservation buys you a spot (for the whole day) on one of their cushy lounge chairs on the beautiful beach. You can either eat lunch in your beach chair or up in the beautiful seaside restaurant which is open to the ocean breezes.
Meals in St. Barth’s are usually expensive but worth it, unlike many spots in the Caribbean. There are some bargains; do some research in advance and you’ll discover Le Select (of Cheeseburger in Paradise fame), Andy’s Hideaway, Chez Rolande/The Wishing Well, Le Bouchon, Les Bananiers, and others. The dollar/euro situation is a big issue for U.S. visitors, so be prepared for everything to be nearly 50% more than it appears (i.e., 100 euros is $147 as of this writing) . The restaurants run the gamut in terms of theme but are consistently above average compared to other islands. You can find French cuisine of course (after all you are in France), lots of seafood, Thai, Chinese, Italian, pizza, sushi, etc…. pretty much whatever you’re looking for is available here. Many visitors find that even after a couple (or even a dozen) visits they still haven’t dined at all the restaurants on the island. But they sure have fun trying! Here's a website which provides a current list of all the restaurants on the island, as well as photos of each one:
http://web.mac.com/gnik/Restos/A-Caviar.html
BEACHES
The other decision you'll have is what beach to go to. There are several, and all have their attributes and their fan clubs. My favorite is Flamands Beach. Many prefer Saline Beach or Gouverneur, on the opposite side of the island. Others prefer St. Jean or Lorient Beach. Grand Cul de Sac isn't exciting but it’s protected and has a pretty view; it’s a great place to windsurf, kayak, or take out a paddle boat, and it’s a really safe beach if you have small children. Shell Beach is small and convenient to town, and if you happen to be staying in Corossol there is a cute little beach there as well. Wherever you are, you're never more than 5 or 10 minutes from a great beach, and that is where most visitors spend their days. Of course you can also charter a boat for a day sail, go snorkeling, hike or bike around the island’s many trails.
Sunset at Lorient Beach
SHOPPING
As I mentioned, the shopping is also excellent, so don’t fear inclement weather. It’s just an excuse to stroll around Gustavia or St. Jean, window shopping and perusing the many upscale boutiques that line the harbor. St. Barth’s is a duty-free tax haven and you’ll find many good deals on jewelry, designer clothing, and other luxury items; however, the current exchange rate tends to negate those duty-free deals. Definitely buy a few bottles of Rhum Vanille (vanilla rum) to take home with you; it’s a specialty of the island which is served gratis after dinner in many of the restaurants, and it’s sure to bring back happy memories once you’ve returned home.
MORE INFO
Many questions about St. Barth’s can be answered by perusing two websites: www.st-barths.com and www.sbhonline.com. The former is an extensive guide to the island and the latter is a travel blog/forum, with contributors who range from “newbies” to those on their 25th trip to the island. Both offer a wealth of info on where to stay, where to go, what to do, and where to eat, along with other helpful details on life on St. Barth.
In summary, I can only tell you this: your first trip to St. Barth will definitely not be your last. I think it’s one of the most romantic spots on earth, and I hope you get to go there some time in your life.
Overall Romantic Experience *****
St. Jean Beach
St. Barth is the quintessential romantic Caribbean destination. Beautiful, elegant, small and intimate, it doesn’t get any better than this. Whether you stay in one of the island's many villas or in one of the fantastic hotels, whether you prefer beach or shopping, whether you dine out or dine in, your experience in St. Barth will be unforgettable. Here is what you WON’T get here: high rise hotels, casinos, masses of tourists, unfriendly natives, and crime. This is a low key paradise; nightlife consists of dining at one of the dozens of eclectic, romantic restaurants, then stopping by a waterfront bar to hear a little live music. Days are spent on one of several gorgeous beaches; the rare cloudy day brings everyone into town for shopping.
St. Barth is part of France and the E.U. Most of the 8000 residents are of French origin, with fair skin and brown hair. Ironically not too many locals have a tan! Many of the residents return “home” to Paris or other parts of France during the summer, which is low season here. High season runs from just before Christmas through mid-April. Late spring and early summer, as well as Thanksgiving week, are excellent times to visit if you are looking for a great deal. Hotels and villas are discounted, sometimes as much as 50% off of the winter rates. Christmas and New Years are SUPER HIGH season, with lodging rates soaring off the charts. But the island is never really crowded; you may find a few more cars vying for the best parking spots in town, a few more people on St. Jean Beach, and a little more difficulty getting a dinner reservation, but compared to other resort towns in high season it’s not a big deal.
St. Barth is only 8 square miles, so traveling around the island is easy and relatively quick. The farthest you’ll have to travel to get to the opposite end of the island is about 25 minutes, and that’s only because there are a lot of hills and curves. There are no stoplights, but there is one roundabout that you won’t soon forget. (Hint: the loud noise you hear directly above you is a plane approaching the landing strip.) The choice of where to stay is mainly determined by whether you are a villa person or a hotel person. Both have their advantages… first timers might want to go with a hotel, though, to get oriented to the island with a little assistance from the front desk. Villas are the obvious choice for families or groups, or couples who want just a little more privacy.
ARRIVING
Getting to St. Barth is a roller coaster ride --- literally. Only small planes can land on the short runway, so you fly into St. Martin and then take a 12 minute flight in a puddle jumper. Or you can take a ferry. But most people actually come to enjoy the dramatic landings over the hill and take-offs over the beach. The low altitude flight provides great views of the island. Once you arrive, you pick up your rental car right there at the tiny airport. Whether you have rented a villa or reserved a hotel, there will be someone there to meet you and guide you to your lodging. You might want to tell them to meet you about an hour after your plane lands so that you can pick up your rental car and go to Match supermarket, which is across the street from the airport. There you will find everything you need for your stay, from wine and liquors to fresh produce, cheeses, breads, local specialties, to sun screen, paper towels, and villa provisions. There are a couple of other supermarkets on the island but this is a very convenient spot to get your preliminary shopping out of the way before heading to your villa. (Even if you have a hotel room, most of them feature a small refrigerator to store wine or beer or bottled water.)
LODGING
The hotels of St. Barth tend towards the small and elegant. No high rises here; most hotels have only 20 or 30 rooms. The top properties are Le Toiny, Isle de France (IDF), Eden Rock, Guanahani, Carl Gustav, Le Sereno, Le Christopher (now temporarily closed), and Francois Plantation. These are expensive in high season but can be relative bargains in late spring, summer, and fall. (Be aware that St. Barth’s is in the hurricane belt and plan accordingly.) These hotels have very different personalities and characteristics, so research thoroughly before making your selection. For example, IDF, Eden Rock, Guanahani, and Le Sereno are all on a beach; Carl Gustav is in Gustavia (an easy stroll to restaurants in town for dinner, and there's a beach within easy walking distance); Le Toiny is far above a beach but has individual plunge pools in each room and great views; the Christopher is waterfront but not beachfront; and Francois Plantation is high up on the top of the mountain. There are also several nice mid-priced hotels with similar characteristics; info is available on the websites below. Don’t feel that you can’t come to St. Barth’s because you can’t afford one of the super-deluxe hotels; there are some very cute, clean, and comfortable hotel/suites for around 200 euros per night (try Les Mouettes, Le P'tit Morne, or Saline Gardens). So do your research and choose according to your budget and priorities.
The beach at Isle de France
The same can be said for villas; do your research and you’ll find the perfect place. You can choose to use an agency such as Wimco or St. Barth’s Properties, or you can try to find a rental by owner. We’ve rented through the owner three times and have had excellent experiences. Villas can be as inexpensive as 100 euros per night in low season for a small but charming villa/apartment, to 20,000 euros per week in high season for a magnificent show-stopper with all the bells and whistles. There are plenty to choose from in every price category, so look around and be flexible. Decide in advance if being on the beach is critical to your needs, or if you prefer a hillside view (with the attendant breezes). Do you have to have a pool or will you probably not use one after being on the beach all day? (Some people find this an absolute necessity, and we did too until we realized that in two weeks we only used the pool once.) Do you need a full professional kitchen (believe it or not, many visitors cook their meals some nights --- but not me!) or will a small galley-type kitchen suffice? Do you want to be close to Gustavia (not a bad idea on your first visit, less important on subsequent trips) or would you prefer St. Jean (too noisy in my opinion but if you like action you’ll want to consider this option). Scanning through the various villa websites is a great way to fritter away a few hundred hours of your time, so put some thought into it in advance so that you can narrow your search.
DINING
Okay, so you’ve finally reached your lodging --- Now what? You may want to stay close to home the first night, having dinner at your villa or in your hotel’s restaurant. There aren’t too many roads in St. Barth’s and it’s pretty hard to get lost, but since you’re probably arriving in late afternoon or early evening it might be best to wait until daylight to really explore the island. Before going to your villa you can stop at Maya’s To Go (also across from the airport, a hundred yards or so down from Match on the same side) or Kiki et Mo’s (a bit further down in St. Jean) and pick up a full meal, wine, beer, etc. As the week progresses you will probably eat many dinners in the 90+ restaurants on the island, but it’s nice to have the option to hang out by the pool or on the beach or on your patio, listen to some music, and relax over a low key meal "at home". There is also a service which will deliver food from several restaurants: Allo Delivery, phone is 0590 51 07 77.
‘Where to eat?’ will be your most difficult decision every day (your only other decision is what beach to go to). Many people opt for a picnic-type lunch, getting bread, cheese, and other take-out items from the places mentioned above, or of course one of the supermarkets. Add a bottle of wine and a beach and you’re set. Others opt for a sit-down lunch at one of the many restaurants with a view, such as Nikki Beach Club, The Sand Bar (at the Eden Rock Hotel), or La Plage on St. Jean Beach; Le Sereno, or L’Indigo on Grand Cul de Sac; Wall House, Le Repaire, or one of the many other restos around the harbor in Gustavia; Do Brasil on Shell Beach near town; or my personal favorite, Le Case de L’Isle at the Isle de France (IDF) hotel on Flamands Beach. At the IDF your luncheon reservation buys you a spot (for the whole day) on one of their cushy lounge chairs on the beautiful beach. You can either eat lunch in your beach chair or up in the beautiful seaside restaurant which is open to the ocean breezes.
Meals in St. Barth’s are usually expensive but worth it, unlike many spots in the Caribbean. There are some bargains; do some research in advance and you’ll discover Le Select (of Cheeseburger in Paradise fame), Andy’s Hideaway, Chez Rolande/The Wishing Well, Le Bouchon, Les Bananiers, and others. The dollar/euro situation is a big issue for U.S. visitors, so be prepared for everything to be nearly 50% more than it appears (i.e., 100 euros is $147 as of this writing) . The restaurants run the gamut in terms of theme but are consistently above average compared to other islands. You can find French cuisine of course (after all you are in France), lots of seafood, Thai, Chinese, Italian, pizza, sushi, etc…. pretty much whatever you’re looking for is available here. Many visitors find that even after a couple (or even a dozen) visits they still haven’t dined at all the restaurants on the island. But they sure have fun trying! Here's a website which provides a current list of all the restaurants on the island, as well as photos of each one:
http://web.mac.com/gnik/Restos/A-Caviar.html
BEACHES
The other decision you'll have is what beach to go to. There are several, and all have their attributes and their fan clubs. My favorite is Flamands Beach. Many prefer Saline Beach or Gouverneur, on the opposite side of the island. Others prefer St. Jean or Lorient Beach. Grand Cul de Sac isn't exciting but it’s protected and has a pretty view; it’s a great place to windsurf, kayak, or take out a paddle boat, and it’s a really safe beach if you have small children. Shell Beach is small and convenient to town, and if you happen to be staying in Corossol there is a cute little beach there as well. Wherever you are, you're never more than 5 or 10 minutes from a great beach, and that is where most visitors spend their days. Of course you can also charter a boat for a day sail, go snorkeling, hike or bike around the island’s many trails.
Sunset at Lorient Beach
SHOPPING
As I mentioned, the shopping is also excellent, so don’t fear inclement weather. It’s just an excuse to stroll around Gustavia or St. Jean, window shopping and perusing the many upscale boutiques that line the harbor. St. Barth’s is a duty-free tax haven and you’ll find many good deals on jewelry, designer clothing, and other luxury items; however, the current exchange rate tends to negate those duty-free deals. Definitely buy a few bottles of Rhum Vanille (vanilla rum) to take home with you; it’s a specialty of the island which is served gratis after dinner in many of the restaurants, and it’s sure to bring back happy memories once you’ve returned home.
MORE INFO
Many questions about St. Barth’s can be answered by perusing two websites: www.st-barths.com and www.sbhonline.com. The former is an extensive guide to the island and the latter is a travel blog/forum, with contributors who range from “newbies” to those on their 25th trip to the island. Both offer a wealth of info on where to stay, where to go, what to do, and where to eat, along with other helpful details on life on St. Barth.
In summary, I can only tell you this: your first trip to St. Barth will definitely not be your last. I think it’s one of the most romantic spots on earth, and I hope you get to go there some time in your life.
